26. Palermo - The Capital of Sicily

July 13, 2023

26. Palermo - The Capital of Sicily

Palermo, Sicily's largest city is a mesmerising mashup of urban dishelvement and stirring of the soul beauty. Not my words but those of Lonely Planet and which is a good portrayal of the City.

Noise, horns, shouting, bustling, vibrant, street food, rubbish, fading beauty of buildings but yet charming and full of character are all the ingredients of this character city.

As I walked to a ship chandler for some boat parts I found the road had been closed to traffic with police blocking the road at each end. Some motorists got out of their cars shouting, arguing, gesticulating at the police - in their face. The police looked quite calm and apologetic with this confrontation. I wonder what would have happened in London or Paris with the same blocked road - possibly two different scenarios.

There was a concert being set up with a very large stage just across from the marina and we were told the concert was free. They started practicing two days before the concert. On the day of the concert a large helicopter was circling low over the marina all day. Initially we had heard (from London) that Mount Etna had erupted so we thought the helicopter was monitoring air quality but apparently it was not the case as Mount Etna had not erupted! It was concert security.

Night time the old quarter came alive. I have never seen so many restaurants packed together with such varied offerings. Street food was big. Everywhere it was being sold and particularly in one area where open barbeques were cooking the Palermo sausage which looked quite disgusting but apparently was not as bad as it looked. By 9 o'clock all the restaurants were full and little alleyways with tables from different restaurants jostled for position and people spilling out onto the streets sitting on the pavement where even cushions had been provided. The atmosphere was palpable. Pictures describe the scenes better than I.

Street food during the day

Spoilt for choice

NIGHT TIME COMES

A very atmospheric restaurant

Enjoying our time with the McWhinneys who joined us at Palermo

Half in and half out

An air of atmospheric decadence

My theory is that the Italians build their houses so close as to ensure the houses and road are always in the shade.

The next day it was business as usual

The fruit and vegetables in Sicily are just incredible. From enormous juicy nectarines to enormous aubergines and red onions. The size we have never seen before yet a third of the UK price.

Yet the elegance of the old buildings, although not as well kept, could be in Paris or London and it does show the lifestyle of the past.

Palermo is also a Port with shipping consistently moving in and out of the busy port.

Ferries from large car ferries going to Genoa or Naples or local ferries such as the hydrofoils, catamarans and other passenger ships.

When the Cruise liners come into port they dwarf everything. It is impossible to get onto a drop on drop off tour bus as they are packed with the passengers who are there for a fleeting visit before they head off to swamp a further town. They leave with the loudspeakers blaring out Bocelli singing " It's time to say goodbye".